DIY Square Coffee Table With Angled Legs

Learn how to build a Serena & Lily inspired DIY square coffee table with angled X-legs. This budget-friendly DIY uses a trick to mimic the concrete top too!

DIY Square coffee table in living room with decor and text overlay

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I am back with a new project!

I am talking about this DIY square coffee table with those cool angles X’s in the legs!

The inspiration behind this table is a Serena and Lily Coffee table that retails for $1300 (actually it is $1999 but its on sale as I write this).

Can you guess how much it cost me to make?

$120!

Yes! Just over a hundred dollars!

For this pretty beauty that now sits in my living room.

close up of the top of the DIY coffee table

And guess who made the plans for this?!

The one and only Jen Woodhouse. She is sharing the printable plans for this table over on her site, so be sure to grab them!

Look close! Do you think I used concrete to make that top?

Stay tuned for the answer!

Now let’s get into all the details of building this coffee table.

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DIY Square Coffee Table

Materials Needed for the DIY Coffee Table

Square Coffee Table Plans

Jen Woodhouse has the plans available on her website. Click below to get the plans! 

GET THE PLANS

How to Build a Coffee Table

Here is a video showing you exactly how I built this coffee table.

Step by step instructions and all the written details follow below.

Click here to subscribe to my YouTube Channel for more great videos!

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Building the Coffee Table

Step 1: Build the Top and Bottom Frame

The top and bottom frames are basically squares built with 2 x 2s attached using 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Top and bottom frame squares for the coffee table

Be sure to check for square every step of the way as it is important to get all the measurements to fit.

Step 2: Cut Angled Corner Boards and Attach

  • The angled corner boards have a compound miter cut. To get the identical dimensions and direction of cuts, I cut one piece and used that to mark and cut the rest of the sides.
  • The angled corner boards are attached to the frame using pocket holes.

Due of the miter and beveled cuts on the ends, it can be tricky to put the board in a K4 or K5. I found that it was easiest to make the pocket holes using the Kreg 320.

Attaching the side boards u sing pocket hole screws
  • Attach the top frame. This is easiest to do by laying the top frame on the floor and aligning the frame upside down.
Completed frame for the DIY coffee table

Step 3: Attach the X’s

  • The key to these X’s is to get a really tight fit on the boards. Measure and cut as you go.
  • The long X’s and one end of the short X’s are attached using wood glue. I added a couple of finish nails to the center of the short X’s to hold them in place as the glue dried.

Let dry overnight and the frame is done!

completed coffee table base

At this point, I was totally in love with the design.

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Step 4: Stain or Paint the Frame

If you are going for a two tone look like me, this is a good time to stain or paint the bottom frame.

I used this stain on the frame.

Step 5: Build the Top

At this point there was an issue… If I built the top separately, there was no way to attach it to the frame because there was barely any clearance to reach in through the X’s and add screws.

This is the solution I came up with –

The top is made up of two parts.

  1. The frame – built out of 1 x 8’s to add thickness to the top but keep it light.
  2. The top plywood.
  • Build the frame using wood glue and countersunk 1-1/4″ wood screws directly through the 1 x 8’s into the frame.
  • Attach the top plywood to the frame using wood glue and clamps tightly to dry overnight.
glueing up the coffee table top

Step 6: Add “Concrete”

Yes, I cheated! It isn’t concrete. 🙂

It is contact paper!

Concrete contact paper roll on coffee table

I have used contact paper on many projects in the past and it has always held up so great!

I had never used concrete contact paper so when Jen suggested it, I just had to give it a try… plus, a real concrete countertop would make this coffee table extremely heavy… and I wanted to be able to move it around in our tiny living room.

Applying concrete contact paper –

  • Clean the top as well as you can. I sanded it smooth, removed the dust with a damp cloth and used a vacuum to clean it up.
  • Slowly apply the contact paper by peeling away backing as it comes in contact with the top.
Applying concrete contact paper to the coffee table
  • If you need a seam (which you will because the contact paper isn’t wide enough!) try your best to keep it as tight as possible. No one can notice the seam until I point it out or the light falls a certain way.

And we have a gorgeous coffee table that has the most amazing character!

close up of the concrete contact paper on coffee table

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The thing that make it the most beautiful – the angled legs can be a little tricky.

side view of the angled legs of the DIY coffee table

The key is to measure and cut as you go… to keep all the boards as tight fit as possible.

A little patience goes a long way! (ask me how I know 🙂 )

Don’t forget, you can get the printable plans on Jen’s website!

And now I am off to stare at this pretty coffee table some more… because I can’t seem to get enough of it!

Full view of the DIY square coffee table in a living room

If you build it, I would love to see! Feel free to email photos to me at anika@anikasdiylife.com or tag me on Instagram @anikasdiylife and Jen @jenwoodhouse for a chance to be featured on social media! We can’t wait to see it!

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More Projects Like This DIY Coffee Table –

Learn how to build a Serena & Lily inspired DIY square coffee table with angled X-legs. This budget-friendly DIY uses a trick to mimic the concrete top too!

DIY Square Coffee Table with Angled Legs

Yield: 1 Square Coffee Table With Angled Legs

How to build a Serena & Lily inspired DIY square coffee table with angled X-legs.

Materials

Instructions

  1. Build the top and bottom frame. The top and bottom frames are basically squares built with 2 x 2s attached using 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.
  2. Cut angled corner boards. The angled corner boards have a compound miter cut. The angled corner boards have a compound miter cut. To get the identical dimensions and direction of cuts, I cut one piece and used that to mark and cut the rest of the sides.
  3. Attach to the frame using pocket holes.
  4. Attach the corner boards using 2-1/2" pocket hole screws and wood glue.
  5. Attach the top frame. This is easiest to do by laying the top frame on the floor and aligning the frame upside down.
  6. Attach the Xs. The key to these X's is to get a really tight fit on the boards. Measure and cut as you go.
  7. The long X's and one end of the short X's are attached using wood glue. I added a couple of finish nails to the center of the short X's to hold them in place as the glue dried.
  8. Let dry overnight and the frame is done!
  9. Stain or paint the frame.
  10. Build the top. The top is made up of two parts. The frame is built out of 1 x 8's to add thickness to the top but keep it light. The top is plywood.
  11. Build the frame using wood glue and countersunk 1-1/4" wood screws directly through the 1 x 8's into the frame.
  12. Attach the top plywood to the frame using wood glue and clamp tightly to dry overnight.
  13. Add "concrete". Clean the top as well as you can. I sanded it smooth, removed the dust with a damp cloth and used a vacuum to clean it up.
  14. Slowly apply the contact paper by peeling away backing as it comes in contact with the top.
  15. If you need a seam (which you will because the contact paper isn't wide enough!) try your best to keep it as tight as possible. No one can notice the seam until I point it out or the light falls a certain way.
  16. That's it!

Anika's goal is to inspire and empower beginners with woodworking, DIY, home improvement, and home decor ideas.
She wants everyone to unlock their creative potential and experience the feeling that comes with making something. Nothing feels better better than seeing something and saying "I can make that!"

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3 Comments

  1. Lisette Barbosa says:

    Beautiful!!

  2. Linda Weeks says:

    Yes. it is really pretty! And did I already tell you that the Kreg jig that I just got was the 320? Now this project is something I’m really interested in taking on, especially since you used the same jig that I have! Thank you!

  3. Love the clever idea for the top! I absolutely would have guessed it was actual concrete! Nice build!!

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